Canterbury, Kent first captured my imagination in 2012, when I visited as part of a study abroad program. We visited from London, and it was the first site that really reached out to me (before that we had primarily learned a. lot. about. Churchill.). Canterbury, to me, was a real-life representation of worlds I had only read about. It was also a nice break from London, where the urban rush felt particularly overwhelming to me.
Fast-forward eight years, and I feel much the same way. I recently took a weekend escape to Canterbury and felt that same sense of excitement, but this time I got to explore beyond the Cathedral.
Ok well, to be honest the Cathedral was my first stop. I’m a sucker for visiting churches and Canterbury Cathedral is a motherlode of a church. Canterbury has been a worship site for over 1,400 years, which is a number that simply blows my mind. The first cathedral was built in 597 AD by St. Augustine, who was sent from Rome by the pope to convert Kent. Augustine was the first Archbishop of Canterbury; the current archbishop is the 105th archbishop. The Cathedral is still on the site of St. Augustine’s original cathedral, but it was rebuilt and enlarged following a disastrous fire in 1070 AD. Bits and pieces have been added since then, following damage from the 1640 Civil War, replacement of the North West tower in 1840, and wear and tear from World War II (though the Cathedral Library was sadly destroyed by bombs, the Cathedral itself remained intact largely due to civilians who patrolled the roof to disarm dropped incendiary bombs). The Cathedral is very much an active and living church today, hosting over 2,000 services a year.
The best way to visit the Cathedral, in my opinion, is to attend a service. I may just be biased because I happened to arrive just in time to attend Evensong, but the free entrance was pretty rad too. Evensong services are held in the 12th century Quire, an intimate and gorgeous inner part of the Cathedral, and features music from the choir, which is out of this world. Between the heavenly music, burning incense, and moody setting I could definitely see how traditional services like this have been a part of people's lives for so long.
I highly recommend visiting the Cathedral during visiting hours as well, when you’ll have time to explore at your own leisure. The Cathedral can get particularly busy during the summer months and towards the late afternoon tends to see a fair share of school groups as well. If you bring a large bag or backpack, you may be searched for general security reasons. Again, check the hours to be sure, but general visiting hours are 9am - 5:30pm with slight variations in the winter and on Sundays.
The sheer amount of history packed into Canterbury Cathedral can be overwhelming, and it’s easy to miss fascinating things if you’re unaware. Before visiting, I recommend checking out Canterbury’s “Top 10” List and their page of fun (and a couple gruesome) facts. Can’t make it yourself? Luckily, the church website hosts a virtual tour as well as stunning aerial footage of the grounds and interior.
The rest of this city is as jam-packed with history and quirks as the Cathedral. Take a peek at a map before wandering to get your bearings; the river-like medieval streets can be a bit confusing. Canterbury is both a college town and a tourist destination, meaning you’ll find fast food, high street shopping, and a 13th century pilgrim’s hospital within spitting distance of each other. It’s a lot. Though I could do without the commercial shopping opportunities, I did get to appreciate Canterbury’s booming foodie scene; while The Skinny Kitchen’s name immediately brought back some old body-shaming flash-backs, their all-day brunch menu, centered around creatively prepared fruits and veggies (and also pancakes) and Insta-worthy interior more than makes up for it. For food on the go, Cite Crepes operates a darling pop up very nearby the Cathedral. Byron Burgers, on the other hand, serves a mean burger and shake for when you just need to satisfy that craving. If none of those sound right, Canterbury is still full of hole-in-the-wall places for toasties, Cornish pasty, greasy-diner-like breakfasts, and well-caffeinated coffee. It’s hard to go wrong.
For an overnight stay, I highly recommend aBode Canterbury - particularly if you can make it on a Sunday, when they have special rates including room upgrades, a three-course dinner, and breakfast (#treatyoself). The hotel’s Country Restaurant can be enjoyed by non-guests as well. Though my entire meal was fabulous, I’m honestly still thinking about the pre-dinner bread basket served with smoked butter and Himalayan pink salt oh my goodness. Another funky option is Cathedral Gate Hotel - quirky, old, and directly adjacent to the Cathedral grounds gates, this site has served as some sort of resting place for visitors since the 15th century.
Other notable sights include the Catching Lives Bookshop, housed inside the remarkably disjunct “Crooked House,” which has been off-kilter since Charles Dickens’ time. Eastbridge Hospital has been welcoming visitors since 1190, and the Roman Walls provide a walk around town and through history.
What else would you add to the list in Canterbury?? Let me know!